L-ascorbic acid plays an important role as an antioxidant, retains skin ceramides, inhibits the aging process, reduces wrinkles, improves skin firmness, and elasticity, and brightens skin tone. Ascorbic acid in the powder dosage form is stable, but on the other hand, when dissolved in water, it becomes very sensitive to external factors (temperature, light, oxygen, water, and alkaline pH). This can affect the stability and effectiveness of vitamin C. Vitamin C is stable in the pH range of 3-4 and in concentrated solutions of 10%-20%.
Needleless mesotherapy is a non-invasive treatment used to facilitate transepidermal penetration of a product. The electroporation method is used to activate absorption into the deep layers of the epidermis. The device used generates a high-frequency electric current, increasing the permeability of the cell membrane and stimulating the formation of nanopores (hydrophilic channels), resulting in more efficient absorption of the active substance into the cell. The frequency, type, and length of the electroporation are individually tailored to the problem and treatment site.
Microneedle mesotherapy is a method that enhances the penetration of active substances. Microinjuries formed by skin damage increase the penetration of active substances and stimulate the skin cell renewal process. As a result, microchannels are formed through which the active substance penetrates into the epidermal layer, thereby increasing its efficacy. Themicro-injuries formed during the treatment stimulate platelets to secrete growth factors, which, in turn, promote the epidermal renewal mechanism through accelerated skin cell proliferation and differentiation.
The randomized controlled trial study conducted by Dr. Malwina and colleagues wanted to evaluate the efficacy of administering L-ascorbic acid in combination with the no-needle technique and microneedle mesotherapy as an anti-aging therapy. The study was conducted on 17 healthy subjects, and 2.5 mL of serum containing 20% L-ascorbic acid was administered, 4x with a 10-day interval. The serum used had a pH of 3.5. Needleless mesotherapy was performed on the left side of the face, while the microneedle mesotherapy technique (0.5 mm dermaroller) was performed on the right side of the face.
Results:
- L-ascorbic acid improved skin moisture, elasticity, suppleness, and color as evaluated using corneometer, mexameter.
- When compared between the two techniques, no significant differences were found in the parameters of hydration, hyperpigmentation, and erythema.
- Both methods improved hydration and skin tone equally.
- Although not significantly different, the right side of the subject's face (microneedle) had superior improvement compared to the side with needleless mesotherapy.
Conclusion:
L-ascorbic acid solution was effective in improving skin condition and showed significant improvement in skin elasticity.
Image: Illustration (Source: freepik)
Reference:
Zasada M, Markiewicz A, Drożdż Z, Mosińska P, Erkiert-Polguj A, Budzisz E. Preliminary randomised controlled trial of antiaging effects of l-ascorbic acid applied in combination with no-needle and microneedle mesotherapy. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019;18(3):843-9.
